The Pork Tenderloin: Fry it and They Will Come

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on July 21, 2005

Last week, business travel took me to Philadelphia. I had been once before as a child but this was my first time to visit as an adult. Philadelphia is known for many things. It is, of course, the birthplace of our nation’s freedom and home to icons like the Liberty Bell. Philadelphia is also one of several places in the United States associated with a particular food. I’m referring to the famous Philly cheese steak.

Along with visits to the National Constitution Center and historic Christ Church, the Philly cheese steak was a much anticipated part of my itinerary. I was not alone in my quest to eat the City of Brotherly Love’s signature sandwich. I waited in line at the landmark Jim’s Steaks for a full hour. I started my wait on the sweltering sidewalk where the wafting aroma of grilled onions whetted my already veracious appetite. I finally made inside and found I was still a long way from the counter. The line went back and forth like an amusement park ride. The interior that had probably not changed much in the last few decades and every square inch of wall space was occupied by framed photos of actors, sport stars, politicians, and other notables who had eaten at the establishment.

In line with me were both locals and tourists. For the locals Jim’s seemed like a frequent gathering place and judging from the dozen or more dialects from all over the world, there were visitors from all four corners of the globe. All these people were converging on this place to shell out their $5.75 and to order “wiz wit” which translates to a cheese steak with cheese whiz and grilled onions. There are other variations but wiz wit is what put the cheese steak on the map. Jim’s is just one of several dozen cheese steak joints, some of which are open 24 hours per day.

As I ate my cheese steak I wondered how some regional foods reach rock star-like status while others remain only moderate favorites of the locals. There are a other examples besides the Philly Cheese Steak that reach this level of notoriety – Chicago-style pizza and hot dogs, New York bagels, Maryland crab cakes, Maine lobster rolls, and BBQ variations from several regions of the country. In each of these places you can find restaurants, like the Philly’s cheese steak stands, were the people line up and proprietors cash in.

I also wondered what Indiana favorite might have the greatest potential to become a culinary superstar. It occurred to me that one of the foods most associated with Indiana and perhaps most likely to put us on the foodie map is the pork tenderloin sandwich. The tenderloin seems to have many of the same characteristics as does the cheese steak and these other favorites. It is inexpensive, unpretentious, and not exactly health food.

There have been a few attempts to launch the sandwich into the culinary atmosphere including a 12-minute documentary, “In Search of the Famous Hoosier Breaded Pork Tenderloin Sandwiches,” by an Indiana-born filmmaker, Jensen Rufe. Well, the Academy didn’t come calling nor did the masses converge on our state’s fine establishments with tenderloins on the menu.

So, what will it take for the tenderloin to be Indiana’s gastronomic trademark? Perhaps we can learn a thing or two from the other food icons. First, there usually seems to be competing legends about the origin of these foods. These tales are often steeped in business betrayals and family feuds. I’m not sure if anyone rally knows the origins of the pork tenderloin. If not, maybe we can make up some great story about how they came about and why they are so much bigger than the bun.

Second, there often seems to be some charismatic P.T. Barnum-like spokesperson that at some point makes such a loud noise people are forced to pay attention. Is Gene Keady looking for a job?

Lastly, celebrity endorsements seem to be a key component. Could we get a tenderloin to tennis star Andy Roddick this week? Can Letterman eat fried food after his heart problems? We should find out.

These ideas might be a good start to get the tenderloin the global respect it deserves. I’m trying to do my part by sounding the clarion call. I’m also going to eat a tenderloin before the week is out. Will you do the same?