La Buvette: Casual Elegance at an Affordable Price

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on March 17, 2003

Most people in Lebanon are probably aware of the Bijou, a jewel of a restaurant that is recognized as one of central Indiana’s best dining experiences. Many may not be aware, however, that on Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings, the Bijou is really two restaurants – their regular menu is served in the dining room but the La Buvette (The Bar) menu is offered in, of course, the bar.

Casual elegance is the best way to describe La Buvette side of the house. It is small space that can accommodate about 25 people. There are four tables for parties of four and seven can be seated at the bar. Adding a touch of whimsy, there is also a table for two that is usually occupied by Pongo the bereted stuffed toy Orangutan.

Both sides of the house feature luxurious appointments including dark-stained wood work, crown molding, and marble-topped bar and wine station. The lighting is subdued and a mixture of light classical and jazz music accents the ambiance.

The evening I visited, I was dining alone so sat at the bar. I was greeted by Philippe Boeglin, Bijou’s and La Buvette’s genuine French waiter. Having been here a few times I knew that they usually offer nice wines by the glass so I asked what they had that was interesting. Philippe recommended a 2001 Old Vine Zinfandel from Klinker Bricks Winery in California’s Lodi Region. The wine was a great choice. It is big, bold Zinfandel with a rich, dark color, ripe berry flavors, and just the right amount of oak and tannin.

As I enjoyed my wine, Philippe brought a menu and a warm French baguette with real butter. The La Buvette menu features beef, fish, chicken, and lite salad entrees. I wanted to stick with my red wine so I was leaning toward beef. The other enticing entrees included the Basa Catfish ($7.00) dusted with cornmeal and served with rice and vegetable and the Chicken Breast Mornay ($9.00) served with pasta and topped with a Swiss cheese sauce sounded great too. Although the quarter-pound Filet Mignon ($16) tempted me, I decided on the Beef Bourguignon ($9.00). The entrée salads on the menu included a Grilled Shrimp Caesar and a Lite Chicken Raspberry Salad.

After Philippe sent my order back to the kitchen I had a few minutes to talk with him. This guy knows his stuff. He was train as a chef in Paris but decided he was more comfortable in the front side of the house. He really knows his food and wine and can make great recommendations.

My meal arrived in short order and I dug in. The Beef Bourguignon, chucks of beef and carrots in a rich Burgundy wine sauce, was served over noodles with French-cut green beans on the side. This is a classic French dish – a few quality ingredients, expertly prepared. It was delicious.

Although I was completely satiated after my meal I knew you, dear reader, would be disappointed if I didn’t try a dessert and tell you about it. So, I gave in the expectations of “my public” and ordered the Crème Brulee ($5.00) and a decaf coffee. The Crème Brulee came in a generous oval ramekin with caramelized sugar on top like a beautiful stained glass window. It was amazing with contrasting textures – creamy custard and crunchy topping. This too is a perfect example of French cooking. Just a few key ingredients (eggs, cream, sugar) expertly assembled into something so much more than the sum of its parts.

It is obvious that this restaurant is a labor of love for Chef/Co-Owner Candace Winter and Co-Owner Kerry Even. This husband and wife team has created something that has put Lebanon on the culinary map. I’m sure many people think of the Bijou as a place for special occasions. La Buvette, on the other hand, is a great place to eat a casually elegant weeknight dinner even when you are watching the budget.

La Buvette is located in the bar side of the Bijou at 111 West Main Street. The La Buvette menu is served Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday nights from 5:00 to 10:00 pm. The entire restaurant, including the bar, is non-smoking. They accept credit cards and gift certificates are available. More information about both Bijou and La Buvette can be here. Their phone number is 765-482-7090.