The Hungry Hoosier

Burgers and Dogs: If These Foods Could Talk

Published in red hot newspapers on Febuary 28, 2008

I’ve got a feeling that if hamburgers and hot dogs could talk, each might confess their jealousy of the other. Maybe it kills the burger that hot dogs are “All-American” and stadiums everywhere are filled with fans devouring lots and lots of hot dogs. The ESPN-televised contests where competitive eaters gorge on dogs, probably drives the burger crazy.

Even though the hot dog has it so great, there’s lots to get worked up when it comes to the high-profile status of the burger. In most places in the U.S., the number of burger restaurants outnumber hot dogs joints by at least ten to one. Hamburgers even have an ever-present sidekick. The simpatico relationship between burgers and fries probably leaves even the most popular hot dog feeling a bit lonely. What is life without a best friend?

I’m not sure what we eat most of here in the Hoosier State. We probably eat our fair share, and perhaps more, of both. In Northwest Indiana, the spillover of Chicago’s love for meat in a tube, has made hot dogs a long-time stand-by in “d’Region.” In the rest of the state, finding a great hamburger has been a much easier task than procuring the top dog. That, however, is starting to change. Every few months, a new hot dog place is staking its claim into the our state’s mid-section. It is an exciting time in Hoosier hot dog history.

There are three relatively new eateries offering terrific hot dogs and one place where even health- and eco-conscious locavoires can find wieners made from locally-raised beef that has been grass-fed and is free of antibiotics and growth hormones.

Sweet Home Chicago, Brownsburg
Chicago native Barry Neary had been a Hoosier for 18 years before he decided to bring a taste of the Windy City to his new home town. Sweet Home Chicago in Brownsburg serves lots of Chicago mainstays but his dogs are the real deal all-beef Vienna beef served on poppy seed buns. The Chicago-style is just like it should be with neon-green relish, sport peppers, and the rest of the trimmings. Sweet Home Chicago is located at 680 E. 56th St., Suite 1 in Brownsburg. They can be reached by phone at 317-852-7581. They are open Monday - Saturday from 10:30 am to 9:00 pm and Sunday from 11:30 am to 7:00 pm. More information, including their full menu is available at www.sweethomechicagofood.com

King David Dogs, Indianapolis
Long time Indianapolis-area residents might remember the King David Dogs brand of hot dogs, made in Indy by the Hene brothers and available at retail outlets all over the city at the time. King David Dogs went away but was recently resurrected by Brent Joseph, grandson of one of the brothers. Recreating the original hot dog recipe, Brent and business partner Matt Hursh now feed downtown diners with loads of hot dog options. The Chicago influence is evident here too with steamed poppy seed buns, and a Chicago Dog on the menu, but the choices go way beyond that. This place is a hot dog lover’s dream come true. King David Dogs is located at 15 N. Pennsylvania and they are open Monday through Friday from 11 am to 4 pm. They can be reached by phone at 317-632-DOGS. More information, including a full menu, is available at www.kingdaviddogs.com.

Chicago Red Hots, Lafayette
Family obligations brought George and Judy to Lafayette from Chicago but they just couldn’t their favorite Chi-town eats of their minds. About a month ago they opened Chicago Red Hots serving dogs, Italian sausage, and Italian beef, all made the Chicago way. This is a true “stand” with no seating. They do, however, have a drive through. They are all set for this Fall’s Boilermaker tailgate season with party packs that will feed a hungry crowd. Chicago Red Hots is located at 350 and Concord Rd. They can be reached by phone at 765-474-8500 and they are open Monday through Saturday from 11 am until 8 pm.

Goose the Market, Indianapolis
Goose the Market continues to be the go-to place for all sorts of locally-raised meats and poultry including all-beef hit dogs. If you want to reduce the carbon footprint of your dog, pick them up from Goose and make your own. Goose the Market is located at 2503 N. Delaware St. They can be reached by phone at 317-924-4944 and online at www.goosethemarket.com. They are open Monday through Friday 10 am to 8 pm and Saturdays from 10 am to 6 pm.

Fair Food All Year Round at Wiggles, Danville

The Indiana State Fair might be over but fans of fair food can rest easy knowing that some of their favorites are now available year-round at a new place in Danville - Wiggles located at 71 South Washington Street features deep-fried candy bars, funnel cakes elephant ears, freshly-made cotton candy, sno-cones, and lot's of other fair foods. Proprietors Jennifer and Clint Riggles (that's Riggles which rhymes with wiggles) opening in June 2007 serving mostly these snacky/dessert-type offerings. Four weeks ago they began serving lunch and dinner items - jumbo tenderloins, corn dogs, hot dogs, walking tacos, spiral cut fries and lots of other guilty pleasures. Like the 2007 Indiana State Fair, they too fry only in non trans-fat oil.

Wiggles also features a great selection of retro candies, mini melts ice cream, and some kitschy novelties. They are open Monday through Thursday from 11 am to 9 pm and Saturday from 11 am to 10 pm. They also host birthday parties! They can be reached by phone at 317-718-7189.

Welcome Hendricks County Flyer Readers

Beginning Thursday, June 14, 2007, the Hungry Hoosier will appear weekly in the Hendricks County Flyer. Welcome Hendricks County readers. I hope you enjoy traveling (virtually) with me throughout Indiana searching for food, family, and community. I try to keep this blog active with information and insights that don't always make into the column. I hope you will join in the conversation. 

A Local Easter Ham

This year we're having a local ham for Easter. The hog was raised, butchered, and the ham smoked within 40 miles from our home. In years past I have prepared grocery-store hams and heritage hams shipped from the West Coast. This will be our first local ham. If you are interested, Moody Meats with shops in Avon and Ladoga is taking orders for Easter Hams. They specialize in sustainably-farmed, all natural pork, beef, and poultry. You can learn more at their website.

Hogshead BBQ, Indianapolis and Pittsboro

Having lived in both Texas and the Southeast (two BBQ meccas), my last 11 years in Indiana has brought on many more BBQ disappointments than good experiences. As of this week, I've got one more notch in the good column. Since 1991, Hogshead has been operating a seasonal, carry-out only restaurant in Pittsboro. I have enjoyed trips there on several occasions but Pittsboro is not on any of my usual paths so I don't get there as often as I would like. Owner Danny Broughton has recently applied his business savvy and pit-master skills to the establishment of a new, year-round, sit-down location in the Indianapolis Broad Ripple neighborhood.

I had a chance to stop by this week for lunch. As I drove up, they passed my first test with flying colors - the unmistakable smell of smoked meat permeated the parking lot. With many of these so-called BBQ places, the sweet smokey perfume is nowhere to be sniffed. To me, that is like walking into an Italian restaurant and not smelling garlic or a bakery with no scent of baking bread. Its just not right.

The timing of my visit caused me to wonder about the shape in which I might find the meat. My day's schedule had pushed lunch back to 3:00 pm. I feared that I might catch them before meat was ready for the dinner crowd leaving me with dried-out fare held from lunch. For the home BBQ master, there is a somewhat narrow window of time when the Que is at its prime. Many BBQ restaurants have steam-heated holding ovens that can prolong that window, but not indefinitely.

When I eat BBQ, I typically prefer pulled pork or brisket to ribs. I like ribs but usually don't want a whole slab or even a half. I was VERY pleased that Hogshead's menu offers a three-bone add-on ($4.79) to any dinner. Perfect! I settled on a pulled pork sandwich with a side of corn casserole ($5.99).

Service was first class. I swear my food arrived in less than a minute and drink refills showed up to the table before I had to ask. I got to listen in to the staff around the corner as they answered questions from a lady picking up a take-out order. They were informed and enthusiastic as they dealt with her many queries. Even the younger (high school or maybe college-age) workers seemed genuinely knowledgeable about the operation and interested in talking with the chatty customer. What a change of pace from many restaurant workers.

Back to the food. Remember that my worry about dry meat? Hogshead proved me wrong. The pork was both moist and full of smokey flavor. In a word - perfect. The three-bone serving of ribs turned out to be just the right amount. The corn casserole was good, but I would be eager to try other sides before making my way back to it. Hogshead offers three sauces - original, hot, and spicy mustard. I didn't find a favorite among the three but had the best luck mixing the original, which is sweet, with the hot. Next time I prefer a vinegar sauce (recipe below). Maybe I'll bring some with me on my next visit.

I urge you to check out Hogshead at either location. Their website provides location information and menus. Long live Hogshead!

Vinegar BBQ Sauce

2 cups cider vinegar
3 tablespoons ketchup
2 tablespoons brown sugar
4 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon hot sauce (like Tabasco)
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons black pepper

Combine all these ingredients and whisk until the salt and brown sugar dissolves. You can store this in the refrigerator for several months.

Although it is not a necessity I use smoked black pepper in the above recipe. I buy mine online at Adrianna's Caravan.

   

So Italian!, Brownsburg

My one-year old son and I were headed to Brownsburg for another reason when his chatters of discontentment from the back seat reminded me that it was his lunchtime. At 15-months old, Oliver is finally at the stage where he can eat almost anything and he is neither picky nor opinionated at this stage, so I had the luxury of picking where we would eat without fear of a protest from him.

I took a turn down East Main and looked up to see the "Now Open" sign of So Italian! so I pulled in to check it out. The place was not only "Now Open" it was brand-spanking new, having been open for business just a couple of days. The menu (available here) was extensive - lots of salads, sandwiches, wraps, calzones, pastas, and pizza. Although I settled on a couple of by-the-slices pieces of pizza, some of the other items looked great. The pastas are provided in a pick-the-noodle, pick-the-sauce fashion with spaghetti, penne, and fettuccine from which to choose and nine different sauces. The Amatricciana (onion, tomato, and bacon) and the Mushroom Ragu looked especially appealing.

While ordering at the counter I got to see the kitchen staff at work. They were getting it done but with that slightly halted style of a new crew in a brand new kitchen. Still there were glimpses of the well-choreographed movements that will surely come soon. The counter staff was helpful and when offered a question they could not immediately answer, asked someone else who they thought would know, and addressed my inquiry post-haste.

My boy and I took our seat and waited a short five minutes for our pizza to come. The slices were enormous, falling off the edges of the plate. To a non-Italian like me, this is closest to New York-style pizza. big slices, substantial but not-too-thick crust. It was evident that the flavorful sauce was made from scratch and the cheese was top-rate.

Although I didn't really have room for dessert, some of the selections intrigued me enough to press my luck. I decided on the Zuppa Inglesa ($3.99) even though the some of the other selections - Cherry Ananas, Tiramisu, and Cheesecake were equally as tempting. When the dessert arrived I was pleasantly surprised at its elegant presentation. It arrived on a plate with a dusting of cocoa and a Pollock-like zig-zag of a chocolate sauce. Upon my first bite I discovered that it tasted even better than it looked - custardy rich with the Ying Yang of sweet cherries and semi-bitter chocolate. The pizza was good but dessert was exceptional. So Italian! definitely makes the Hungry Hoosier list.

So Italian! is located at 515 East Main Street in Brownsburg. They can be reached by phone at 317-858-4777. Their hours are open Monday - Saturday 11 am to 9 pm and closed on Sundays except for some special occasions like Mother's Day.