The Hungry Hoosier

The Big Freeze

I finally got around to buying a chest freezer this week. In the house we have a stainless steel side-by-side fridge/freezer combo. It is sleek and modern and fits our retro/industrial motif we've got going in our kitchen. After living with it for a few months we realized the freezer side is nearly worthless. It is so narrow, that the capacity is limited and what you can put in there gets lost because you have to put one things in front of another. As a result, we don't buy many frozen goods at a time. I had been meaning to get a chest freezer for the garage and finally did.

Today I made my first purchase. I called up my chicken guy, Stan Skillington (see here), and stocked up on six whole birds, and about ten pounds of boneless skinless breasts. I also picked up some pork he gets from a nearby hog guy. Stan's birds can't be beat. There's lots more room in that freezer and my goal is to fill it up.

Parkys: Attention to Detail

Here's a little tip - you can tell a lot about a restaurant by looking at their selection of salad dressings. If a restaurant offers the standard fare, chances are they arrived to the establishment in a jar. The rest of the menu will usually be equally boring and un-inventive. If on the other hand, someone has taken the time to make dressings from scratch and put some imagination into them, you are probably going to have a great meal.

My family and I had dinner at Parky's Smokehouse (new website here) last week. Parky's salad dressing menu includes seven different house-made dressings - Julie Parks' culinary creativity shines through with offerings like Barbecue Cheddar, Barbecue Ranch, and my favorite, Sweet Orange Vinaigrette. The vinaigrette is filled with zesty bits of orange peel and stricks the perfect balance of sweet and sour. This is one of those dressings you want to sop up with your dinner roll. Parky's put a lot of thought into their salad dressings as well as the rest of the menu. 

Around the World in 73 Bites

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on February 23, 2007

Usually this column appears in Thursday’s paper but we had to pushed to Friday in order to accommodate my travel schedule and so I could tell you about my adventure. You see, I went on a round-the-world trip, visiting far away lands like Bosnia, Finland, Jordan, the Philippines, and lots of places in-between.

I had some company on the trip. My sojourners included Julie Parks, from Parky’s Smokehouse, about 200 students, and many of their families. You might think a trip like this would have taken several weeks, maybe months. We all actually traveled Santa-Claus style, doing it all in one night. Oh, did I mention that on the visit all these places, we never left the Lebanon Middle School?

Confused? Here’s the rest of the story. Wednesday night was the Lebanon Middle School’s Worlds Fair and Julie Parks and I were invited to be Guest Judges for the Food Court. The Middle School’s World’s Fair is a real site to behold. Teams of students pick a country, learn about it, develop some projects, create a display, and then set it all up for the evening event.

Many of the participants also prepare a food from the country and have it available for sampling. That’s where Julie and I came in. The food portion of the event is organized by the math faculty with Mary Shirley and Lisa Wulle taking the lead. The students who prepare food are eligible for extra credit points in three categories: taste, presentation, and authenticity. A total of nine extra credit points are available.

Over the course of a couple of hours, Julie and I got to visit each country, sample the food, talk with the student, and have an all-round wonderful time. Most of these student teams went all-out with their projects. Some had very elaborate displays. Others looked the part, with authentic costumes. A number of teams had really done their homework and were loaded with lots of information about their counties - the people, the customs, and the food.

In total, there were over 100 dishes to sample. Julie and I started our tour together so we could both taste everything but we soon realized we would have to divide and conquer if were going to make it to every booth that had food to taste. In total, I tasted about 67 dishes. This is a bit overwhelming even for a food guy like me - moving from savory to sweet, weaving from spicy to mild, and jumping from cold to hot.

Julie and I tasted a lot of really good dishes and I can honestly say that there wasn’t anything that was intolerable, and that in and of itself is pretty remarkable considering were talking middle school students and foods from places that have some food traditions that are pretty foreign to the typical American palate.

All of the students are to be congratulated for putting forth so much effort. There were, however, several standouts. As Julie and I compared notes afterward, we each had stories to tell about foods, sure, but mostly we talked about the students and those who showed great enthusiasm, loads of knowledge, and tremendous pride in their work.

Next week, in this column, I will reveal our choices for winners in three categories: Taste, Presentation, and Authenticity. Along with those three winners, we will have ten Honorable Mentions who stood out above the crowd.

When I got home Wednesday night, I fully anticipated having a night-long battle with gastro-intestinal jet lag but that didn’t happen. What did interrupt my sleep, however, was a strange dream about going through the “It’s a Small World” ride at Disney World. Instead of three-foot robot children singing that stupid song, my dream had real-life middle schoolers, each coming at me with a platter of hors d'oeuvres.

Hey, I Know a Guy!

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on December 7, 2006

“I know a guy.” Most of us have an acquaintance for which this is a familiar refrain. The person who is connected. Need a used car? “I know a guy.” A good hunting dog? “I know a guy.” For me, it was my uncle. His name was Homer but we called him Frog. In his retirement Uncle Frog had a perpetual garage sale filled with a constantly rotating inventory. Looking to add to your collection of ceramic insulator paperweights? He either had it or Uncle Frog knew a guy.

My uncle is long gone but I’m finding myself following in his footsteps. Albeit the guys, and gals I know can hook me up with Indiana’s best food rather than obscure electrical equipment. Doing research for my upcoming book, Home Grown Indiana: A Food Lover’s Guide to Good Eating in the Hoosier State, I’m getting to know farmers, restaurateurs, shopkeepers, and artisans from all four corners of the state.

Although caviar from the shores of Lake Michigan and goat cheese from the banks of the Ohio are great to have in my network, what is even more exciting is the quality producers much closer to home. Last week I had the opportunity to spend an hour or so with a guy who is a true innovator in the world of all-natural poultry, beef, and pork, and he’s doing it within five miles of where I live.

Stan Skillington got a taste of farming earlier in life, helping out at a friend’s farm. As he carved out a successful high-tech career and started a family, the idea of a life on the farm was never too far in the back of his mind. When the opportunity presented itself to buy some land on the outskirts of Lebanon, the Skillington’s took this opportunity to get in touch with their inner agrarians. As Stan researched various types of farming, he became interested in production practices of Joel Salatin, a Virginia farmer who pioneered an innovative method of small-scale, pasture-raised poultry, beef, and pork sold exclusively within his local “food shed” and marketed solely by word of mouth.

Over the last seven years, Stan has adopted and adapted many of Salatin’s methods and added his own innovations, providing a growing number of food-conscious Central Indiana families with all-natural beef, pork, and poultry produced without hormones, antibiotics, growth stimulants or animal byproducts in the feed.

On a recent visit, I was impressed by his passion and ingenuity and I walked away with a couple of whole chickens, some boneless skinless breasts, bacon, chops, and some ground beef. Most of Skillington’s customers buy in bulk - quarters of beef and pork and several chickens at a time. The products are processed several times each year and available for pick up at the farm

So far I’ve worked my way through some bacon and one of the whole chickens. The bacon was smoky and pleasantly moderate in the amount of saltiness. Last Sunday morning we paired Skillington’s bacon with some farm-fresh eggs and toast for a hearty weekend breakfast. On Sunday night I roasted one of the whole birds to use in a Chicken Hash for dinner on Monday and for lunch-box chicken salad sandwiches through the work/school week. The chicken was delicious - moist, tender, with a much more flavorful than the typical grocery store bird.

The Skillington’s have big plans for the future. They have constructed a large building that eventually house a federally-approved processing facility allowing them to produce even more chickens, a customer service area, and eventually a commercial kitchen. We were so impressed with the few things we picked up last week that we’re planning on purchasing a freezer and buying in bulk from Skillington Farms. Now when people talk to me about needing chicken, pork, or beef - “Hey, I know a guy!”

Holy Smoke at Parky's

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on November 2, 2006

Indiana is known for a few great contributions to the world of food, many of which have been covered in this column - tenderloins, sugar cream pie, and the like. I’ve also been known to complain a bit about a few culinary items that the Hoosier State seems to be missing. On the very top of that list is great barbecue.

It has always mystified me how a state that produces so much pork could have so few places that really know how to barbecue. North and South Carolina seem to be the nation’s pork barbecue capital, at least in terms of the pulled variety. A few other places like Kansas City, Memphis, and St. Louis have developed their own style of ribs. In Texas, of course, reigns supreme in the world of barbecue brisket.

Indiana, on the other hand, has just not figured out the barbecue game. Although there are two or three places across the state that get it pretty close to right in my book, there are many more places that do a mediocre job or worse. A few months ago I picked up on some rumblings about town that someone had purchased the old Garfield’s building in Lebanon and was planning to open a barbecue restaurant.

At first, I took the rumor with a big grain of salt. Lebanon residents have all heard tales of new restaurants and retail businesses that never seem to materialize. Then the sign appeared, “Yes it’s true, its BBQ.” It was like Moses himself had gone back up to that mountain and on this trip the burning bush was a smoldering hickory tree and he had brought back a sign this time instead of a couple of stone tablets. With the rumor confirmed, I was still skeptical. “Sure, but it probably won’t be any good.” I thought. Last week Parky’s Smokehouse opened its doors for us all to decide for ourselves. After visiting, my assessment is...Holy Smoke!

Julie and Gary Parks, the masterminds behind, Parky’s have managed to pull of something truly remarkable - a one-of-a-kind, original concept restaurant. I’m not talking about something that is unique compared to other Lebanon restaurants. That goes without saying. I mean that this place is unlike any restaurant anywhere in the world. It seems that the Park’s have woven their personalities and experiences into every aspect of this place and Lebanon is fortunate they have decided to share it with all of us.

I’ve had the opportunity to visit Parky’s twice in the last week, both times for take-out. It was a first-rate experience from the moment I walked into the door and was greeted by the friendly hostess, to the service I got from Mark the bartender who also takes the take-out orders, to the food once I got it home. Was everything flawless? No. No restaurant is in its first few weeks of operation. But those are minor kinks that get worked out as the staff finds its rhythm.

The menu (available here) at Parky’s is varied, especially for a barbecue restaurant. Traditional barbecue includes pulled chicken, pulled pork, sliced turkey, smoked sausage, and baby back ribs. These great meats appear in many forms - dinners, some ingenious sandwiches, salads, and even pizza. Parky’s also has a fine selection of steaks ranging in price from $16.99 to $21.99. These come with rolls, salad, and choice of potato. The most creative item from this part of the menu is a Coffee Crusted Ribeye, something I have on my list to try on a return trip. Sandwiches and burgers round out the entrée choices and range from $5.99 to $8.29 and include a choice of sides.

The Pecan Crusted Walleye ($18.99), Applewood Caesar Salad ($6.99), and Fried Dill Pickle appetizer ($3.99) are a few other creative menu items that have me pretty curious. Desserts are housemade and include some delightful choices like Chocolate Key Lime Pie in a Glass ($5.49) and Comfort Bread Pudding with Praline Sauce ($5.79). Parky’s also has a kid’s (Little Piggy) menu with eight selections ranging in price from $3.99 to $7.29. So far, I’ve tried the pulled chicken, the sliced turkey, and two bites of the bread pudding. Parky’s happened to open their doors at a time when I’m watching calories very closely. The lean choices of the chicken and turkey were delicious, satisfyingly smoky, and kept me within my calorie restrictions. The bread pudding was rich and decedent like dessert should be and I had to summon all of my willpower to limit myself to just two bites.

Lebanon is fortunate to have Parky’s in the community. I’m already a regular and look forward to a long relationship. I urge you to give them a try. You’ll become a regular too, I’m sure.

If You Go

Parky’s is located at 2479 N. Lebanon Street. They can be reached by phone at 765-482-OINK (1646). They are open Tuesday - Thursday from 10:30 am to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday from 10:30 am to 11 pm, Sundays from 10:30 am to 9 pm. and they are closed on Mondays.

Congratulations to Mandy Smith

Mandy Smith of Crawfordsville is the winner of the October "Where in Indiana" contest for correctly identifying the location of "milk" smokestack. This can be found at what is affectionately called "The Milk Building on Indianapolis Avenue in Lebanon. Mandy will win an item from the Hungry Hoosier Store.

The Lo Mein Event

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on August 3, 2006

In old western movies there would come a point when some gunslinger would say to another, “there’s not room for both of us in this town.” Well, we now have three Chinese restaurants in this town and only time will tell if we’ve got room for all three.

Last weekend, in attempt to help sort though the pros and cons of these three competing establishments, I set up a contest of sorts. I decided to test their aptitude for preparing one of my favorites - Lo Mein. On Sunday evening I stopped by Formosa Garden, Buffet King, and the new Fortune Buffet and ordered take-out Chicken Lo Mein from each.

My accomplice in this assignment was my 18-month old son Oliver. One by one we stopped by each place to put in our order and then backtracked to pick the order up. Oliver began to get a bit frustrated with me as I kept hauling him into these restaurants without letting him eat anything. Once we got home we had quite a spread to enjoy and he got to eat his fill.

The following are my observations about each meal and several factors about the ordering experience.

Preparation Time

I placed each of the orders between 5:30 and 6:00 pm on Sunday. Formosa Garden was our first stop and we were told the order would take 15 minutes. We took off for Fortune Buffet where we ordered and were told the wait would be five minutes. Next was Buffet King for a 10 minute wait. We then backtracked to Fortune Buffet, then to Buffet King, and lastly to Formosa Garden. Each order was ready within the estimated time.

Price and Value

Buffet King’s Chicken Lo Mein was priced the lowest at $6.15. The most expensive was Fortune Buffet’s $6.95 and Formosa Garden ended up in the middle at $6.45. When I got home I weighed each order and calculated the price per ounce. Each of the servings weighed in near the two pound mark with just a five ounce difference among the three. Formosa Garden offered the greatest value at $ .20 per ounce. Fortune Buffet was $ .21 per ounce, and Buffet King was $ .22 per ounce.

Temperature

I took with me an instant read probe thermometer and as soon as I got to the car with each order I took the Lo Mein’s temperature. Formosa Garden’s take out was a piping hit 178 degrees. Fortune Buffet was a close 170 degrees and Buffet King’s Lo Mein was 134 degrees.

Taste

When I got home I labeled each order A, B, and C and let my wife sample each. She then gave me three random servings. It turned out that we both had the same preference and picked the Lo Mein from Fortune Buffet as the most flavorful. The noodles were not overcooked and the entire dish had a great combination of flavors and textures. The one draw back to the Fortune Buffet Lo Mein was the small amount of vegetables in the dish. In that regard, Formosa Garden took the prize with big chunks of broccoli, mushrooms, carrots, and other vegetables.

Fortunes

I ended up with a fortune cookie from each restaurant and apparently my “family is young, gifted, and attractive,” I should not be “hasty because prosperity will knock on my door soon,” and “the only good is knowledge and the only evil is ignorance.”

The Final Verdict

Our kids liked all three but my wife and I had a preference for the Lo Mein at the new Fortune Buffet however Formosa Garden offers the most food for the money.

If You Go

Formosa Garden, 2004 N. Lebanon Street, 765-482-8000

Fortune Buffet, 2310 N. Lebanon Street, 765-483-0033

Buffet King, 2452 N. Lebanon Street, 765-483-0088

Ice Cream: Breakfast of Champions

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on June 1, 2006

Over the last few years, my parents have been downsizing which means I have been upsizing. Each time they visit from Oklahoma they bring with them things from the house they hope we can use. Opening the trunk of their car is a bit like a garage sale that delivers but you don’t get to pick and choose - you have to take it all. Sometimes the haul leaves a bit to be desired. “O, thanks mom! I always had my eye on that wagon wheel coffee table.”

On one recent trip, they brought the ice cream maker that has been in our family for nearly as long as I have. This was much better than the coffee table. I’ve got a lot of great summer-time memories that involve that ice cream maker. Fortunately this is not one of those hand-crank models. I’m all for nostalgia, but in a lazy sort of way.

Since Memorial Day kicks off the summer season and this particular Memorial Day was so hot, we thought homemade ice cream would be a good idea. We actually got a chance to use it twice, hauling it to Ohio for a visit to Lisa’s family and then another batch when we had friends over on Monday.

Vanilla was the most frequently-made flavor when I was growing up. The addition of fresh strawberries or peaches was the extent of our experimentation. Maybe we’ve been desensitized by Ben and Jerry’s creations and the umpteen flavors available in the supermarket freezer section, because vanilla, peach, and strawberry seem kind of boring today.

We tend to get a bit more creative when we set out to make the stuff from scratch. One of our favorite nouveau ice cream flavors is inspired by a great breakfast combo - Coffee and Doughnuts. Our first breakfast-inspired flavor, Bacon and Eggs, was not much of a hit but we’re confident Coffee and Doughnuts has a bright future. I’m sure you could use most any doughnut in this recipe but we think Lebanon’s own Titus Bakery (820 W. South Street) doughnuts are the way to go. Here is the recipe.

Coffee and Doughnut Ice Cream

• 3 cups half-and-half
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 8 large egg yolks
• 1 cup sugar
• 3 tablespoons instant coffee granules
• 1-1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• 3 glazed doughnuts cut into bite-sized pieces

Place the half-and-half and the heavy cream into a medium saucepan, over medium heat. Bring the mixture just to a simmer, stirring occasionally, and remove from the heat.

In a medium mixing bowl whisk the egg yolks until they lighten in color. Gradually add the sugar and whisk to combine. Temper the cream mixture into the eggs and sugar by gradually adding small amounts, until about a third of the cream mixture has been added. Pour in the remainder and return the entire mixture to the saucepan and place over low heat. Stir in the vanilla and the instant coffee. Continue to cook, stirring frequently until the mixture thickens slightly and coats the back of a spoon. Use a candy thermometer to be sure the mixture reaches 175 degrees.

Pour the mixture into a container and allow it to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Cover the container and refrigerate for eight hours or overnight. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to the manufacturer's directions. This should take approximately 30 minutes. Stir in the doughnut pieces. This can be served right away at a soft-serve consistency or frozen for couple of hours for a firmer ice cream. This makes about one quart.

Rhubarb Cream Pie from Lyndale Farm

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on April 27, 2006

The term “Yin Yang” originates from Chinese philosophy and describes complementary opposites - masculine and feminine, day and night, hot and cold. In the world of food, Yin Yang is a fundamental factor. Contrasting taste, texture, and color, makes food interesting. In this week’s recipe, rhubarb is the Yin and sugar is the Yang, working together to create something unique and delicious.

As one of the earliest products of an Indiana spring, there a several favorite ways to prepare rhubarb but the pie seems to be the most popular. Frequently it is used as the featured ingredient in a pie or combined with strawberries. When talking with friends from church last weekend about rhubarb, mention of a sugar cream pie with the addition of rhubarb caught my interest. This recommendation came from Kipper and Diana Freeman of Lyndale Farm, located just north of Lebanon.

The Freemans know their rhubarb, as well as tomatoes, and squash, and peas, and other vegetables. This season marks their third year of growing vegetables to sell at the Thorntown Community Market. Much of their 14-acre farm is in alfalfa now and they grow vegetables and herbs in several plots. Although they are not certified organic, they use organic practices and grow nearly everything from organic seeds or seedlings.

I got to visit Lyndale Farm this week to pick up some rhubarb, a copy of Diana’s family recipe, and to get a tour of the farm. Even though it is just a short five minute drive from Lebanon, Lyndale Farm seems a world away (see photos here). The property is gently hugged by Sugar Creek, adorned with wildflowers, and infused with wildlife. After a few minutes in this peaceful setting I was second-guessing my decision to be a city dweller. As they showed me around, however, I was quickly realized why I don’t live on a farm in the country - I’m too lazy to work that hard.

The Freemans both hold down day jobs, and their evenings and weekends are full of the kind of chores that make my back ache just thinking about them. It is evident that the Freemans are passionate about what they are doing. Last summer I had the chance to sample more than just their rhubarb. Visits to their booth at the Thorntown Community Market yielded heirloom tomatoes, baby carrots, and patty pan squash.

I left Lyndale Farm with a bag full of rhubarb and a copy of the recipe in hand. After a quick stop by the grocery store for a couple of ingredients, I was home and ready to make the pie. The recipe was easy but I got a late start on it and had to wait until the following day to have a piece. It was worth the wait and the very first bite is what brought Yin Yang into my mind - complementary opposites. The ruby red bits of rhubarb were inset like jewels into the soft white of the sugar cream. The textures also offered a great contrast with the smooth mouth-feel of the sugar cream interrupted by the semi-crunchy rhubarb. The taste, however, is where the Yin Yang was most evident as the sweet and the tart melded harmoniously together. Find some rhubarb this spring and give this recipe a try and plan to visit the Freeman’s at the Thorntown Community Market in a few weeks.

Rhubarb Cream Pie

• 1 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup flour
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
• 1/2 teaspoon almond extract
• 1 unbaked pie shell
• 2-3 cups diced rhubarb

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a medium-sized bowl mix together the sugar and flour then add the cream, vanilla, and almond extract. Stir until well combined. Pour into the pie shell and then put the diced rhubarb on top. Bake at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 375 degrees and bake an additional 20 minutes or more until set.

Siglers, Lebanon

Originally published in the Lebanon Reporter on March 2, 2006

“Neat as a pin” is not a phrase that I use. In fact, I’m not sure I’ve ever used it; but it is the first impression that came to mind when I entered Sigler’s Restaurant earlier this week. Sigler’s is a cracker-box of a place that seats about 35 at full capacity. I chose a seat at the Formica counter and was promptly presented with a glass of water and a menu.

Looking around, I noticed that this restaurant was as clean and well-ordered as any eating establishment I’ve ever seen. Simple efficiency seems to be an organization principle at Sigler’s. The restaurant is set up like a diner with the food preparation area behind the counter. This provided for me a bird’s-eye view of the kitchen and the simple efficiency theme extended to the way in which Mr. Sigler runs his kitchen.

Working my first job in a restaurant I learned two valuable lessons from one of the managers - (1) work fast but never look like you are hurrying and (2) if you’ve got time to lean you’ve got time to clean. It seems like Sigler’s took notes from this same textbook. Food was being prepared and served with all the speed of the best-in-class diners without the usual chaos that accompanies a diner. Also, clean as you go must be a Sigler mantra, because any down time between orders was spent keeping the kitchen as tidy as an operating room.

As I turned my attention to the menu I decided on a Pork Burger ($2.90) with a side of fries ($1.35). Several other sandwiches were on the menu along with a few dinners like fried chicken and hamburger steak. The special of the day was Ham and Beans served with Hash Browns, Cole Slaw, and Cornbread for just $5.25. Sigler’s also serves breakfast until 10:30 am and the morning menu includes standard breakfast fare including eggs, pancakes, and the like.

As expected, my lunch came quickly. The pork burger was served in a white-bread bun and piled high with iceberg lettuce and pickles just as I ordered it. The fries were of the crinkle-cut variety and came unsalted, which always scores points for me. My sandwich was tasty with a well-flavored pork patty, crisp lettuce, and a soft-as-a-marshmallow bun. The fries were hot and seasoned perfectly, since I was allowed to salt and pepper them to my liking.

As I got down to my last couple of bites, I began to eye the counter-top pie case that only a foot from me. Pecan, Strawberry, and Sugar Cream were the varieties of the day. The server picked up my non-verbal longing and quickly asked if I would like a piece of pie. I gave in to the temptation and ordered a slice of the Sugar Cream ($1.85). The pie was rich, creamy, and the perfect ending to my midday meal.

Sigler’s has a television at one end of the dining area. I could not see it from my seat at the counter and I had ignored whatever had been playing. As I finished my meal, my ear picked up on the familiar whistled theme song of The Andy Griffith Show. My visit to Sigler’s was the day following the death of actor Don Knotts who played Barney. Maybe that made me a bit more nostalgic than I would have otherwise been, but it seemed to me that Sigler’s is just the kind of place that could have been in Mayberry. I could almost see Barney, Andy, and the rest of the gang drinking coffee, having a bite to eat, and catching up on the day’s happenings. I get the idea that this is not too far removed from what goes on a Sigler’s. A little bit of Mayberry just five miles up the road.

If You Go

Sigler’s Restaurant is located at 8245 N State Road 39. Their address is Lebanon but it seems like Mechanicsburg. They are exactly 5.5 miles north of Witham Hospital. Sigler’s is open 7 am to 7 pm Monday though Friday and 7am to 3:00pm on Saturday. They can be reached by phone at 765-325-2477.