The Hungry Hoosier

City Market Frittata

This month's Indianapolis Monthly Hungry Hoosier column includes a recipe for a City Market Frittata using ingredients found at the Indianapolis City Market - farm fresh eggs from Moody Meats, Italian sausage, vegetables, and imported provolone from Constantino’s Market Place. Constantino's Executive Chef Concetta Mascari has the sausage made using her grandfather's recipe. Moody makes it for her, but it is only available from Constantino's. Pick up a copy of the magazine to get the recipe and then stop by City Market to pick up the ingredients!

A Shrimp's-Eye View

There is perhaps no better-known Indianapolis food icon than the St. Elmo's Shrimp Cocktail, with its trademark make-you-cry cocktail sauce. As I travel, and inevitably strike up conversations about food with complete strangers, often St. Elmo's comes up and especially their shrimp cocktail. You may or may not have ever noticed this neon sign on a second floor window above the restaurant. I love it. I mentioned the sign to a friend of mine and he snapped this photo for me (thanks Lee!)from the third-floor of a parking garage across the street. So, next time your near St. Elmo's, look up!

Funny aside - as I typed this post I accidentally keyed in "Chimp" Cocktail. That would be a whole different dish!

Burgers and Dogs: If These Foods Could Talk

Published in red hot newspapers on Febuary 28, 2008

I’ve got a feeling that if hamburgers and hot dogs could talk, each might confess their jealousy of the other. Maybe it kills the burger that hot dogs are “All-American” and stadiums everywhere are filled with fans devouring lots and lots of hot dogs. The ESPN-televised contests where competitive eaters gorge on dogs, probably drives the burger crazy.

Even though the hot dog has it so great, there’s lots to get worked up when it comes to the high-profile status of the burger. In most places in the U.S., the number of burger restaurants outnumber hot dogs joints by at least ten to one. Hamburgers even have an ever-present sidekick. The simpatico relationship between burgers and fries probably leaves even the most popular hot dog feeling a bit lonely. What is life without a best friend?

I’m not sure what we eat most of here in the Hoosier State. We probably eat our fair share, and perhaps more, of both. In Northwest Indiana, the spillover of Chicago’s love for meat in a tube, has made hot dogs a long-time stand-by in “d’Region.” In the rest of the state, finding a great hamburger has been a much easier task than procuring the top dog. That, however, is starting to change. Every few months, a new hot dog place is staking its claim into the our state’s mid-section. It is an exciting time in Hoosier hot dog history.

There are three relatively new eateries offering terrific hot dogs and one place where even health- and eco-conscious locavoires can find wieners made from locally-raised beef that has been grass-fed and is free of antibiotics and growth hormones.

Sweet Home Chicago, Brownsburg
Chicago native Barry Neary had been a Hoosier for 18 years before he decided to bring a taste of the Windy City to his new home town. Sweet Home Chicago in Brownsburg serves lots of Chicago mainstays but his dogs are the real deal all-beef Vienna beef served on poppy seed buns. The Chicago-style is just like it should be with neon-green relish, sport peppers, and the rest of the trimmings. Sweet Home Chicago is located at 680 E. 56th St., Suite 1 in Brownsburg. They can be reached by phone at 317-852-7581. They are open Monday - Saturday from 10:30 am to 9:00 pm and Sunday from 11:30 am to 7:00 pm. More information, including their full menu is available at www.sweethomechicagofood.com

King David Dogs, Indianapolis
Long time Indianapolis-area residents might remember the King David Dogs brand of hot dogs, made in Indy by the Hene brothers and available at retail outlets all over the city at the time. King David Dogs went away but was recently resurrected by Brent Joseph, grandson of one of the brothers. Recreating the original hot dog recipe, Brent and business partner Matt Hursh now feed downtown diners with loads of hot dog options. The Chicago influence is evident here too with steamed poppy seed buns, and a Chicago Dog on the menu, but the choices go way beyond that. This place is a hot dog lover’s dream come true. King David Dogs is located at 15 N. Pennsylvania and they are open Monday through Friday from 11 am to 4 pm. They can be reached by phone at 317-632-DOGS. More information, including a full menu, is available at www.kingdaviddogs.com.

Chicago Red Hots, Lafayette
Family obligations brought George and Judy to Lafayette from Chicago but they just couldn’t their favorite Chi-town eats of their minds. About a month ago they opened Chicago Red Hots serving dogs, Italian sausage, and Italian beef, all made the Chicago way. This is a true “stand” with no seating. They do, however, have a drive through. They are all set for this Fall’s Boilermaker tailgate season with party packs that will feed a hungry crowd. Chicago Red Hots is located at 350 and Concord Rd. They can be reached by phone at 765-474-8500 and they are open Monday through Saturday from 11 am until 8 pm.

Goose the Market, Indianapolis
Goose the Market continues to be the go-to place for all sorts of locally-raised meats and poultry including all-beef hit dogs. If you want to reduce the carbon footprint of your dog, pick them up from Goose and make your own. Goose the Market is located at 2503 N. Delaware St. They can be reached by phone at 317-924-4944 and online at www.goosethemarket.com. They are open Monday through Friday 10 am to 8 pm and Saturdays from 10 am to 6 pm.

Hungry Hoosier "Reuben Tuesday" Story Now Online

A few weeks ago, Across Indiana (WFYI TV Indianapolis) aired a story I wrote and produced about a group of friends who gather for "Reuben Tuesdays" to sample the best Rebuen sandwiches in the Indy area. In the story we also visit the Tie Dye Grill to get some tips on how to make a great Reuben! The clip is now available online here. I had a lot of fun making it and hope you'll enjoy watching it.

Pizza Mortadella

If its Friday night at the Hutcheson's that often means pizza, movie, and popcorn. We occasionally get delivery pizza but we usually make our own. Tonight was a make-our-own night. Oliver (almost 3) and I made the pizza for the rest of the family. Last night, after the boys were in bed, I made a double batch of pizza dough (recipe here) and stuck one in the freezer for later and the other in the fridge for tonight.

To top this evening's pizza, I turned to the Indy foodies' latest darling - Goose the Market. On a visit earlier in the week, I picked up amazing bacon that Chris cures and smokes himself using Indiana-raised pork, but that is for another post. I also brought home some imported mortadella. This stuff is like bologna of the gods. It has an incredible feel on the tongue, its gently spiced, and is studded with pistachio's. Cut into wedges, this made for a terrific pizza topping. I love that my son, not yet three years old, knows words like mortadella!    

A Matter of Taste

I ran some end-of-the-year errands with Henry (6) today and we took a break to eat a bite at Taste Cafe & Marketplace Indy's breakfast and lunch spot that gives Patachou a serious run for the money. On the way to wash up in the restroom we stopped at the window to the kitchen to watch for awhile. This is a serious kitchen - way more than one would expect from a eggs and sandwich sort of place. The kitchen is also used for Taste's catering work and occasional special dinners. Anyway, if you love restaurant kitchens like I do, stop by and take a look.

As for our early lunch, we went for the pommes frites ($2.50) with sea salt and cracked pepper served with a basil aioli. They were hot and delicious. Even my ketchup-loving son dug the aioli. He also had a PB&J bagel and I had the Italian Grinder ($5.95) with imported mortadella, copa, and genoa salami with provolone and olive tapenade. It was a good sandwich but I will explore other menu items before returning to it. It was served with a few thinly-sliced half done-type sweet pickles. These were exceptional. We wanted to try some of the amazing-looking desserts but the line was longer than we wanted to wait. Maybe next time.

Taste is located at 5164 N. College Ave. in Indy. They can be reached by phone at 317-925-2233. More information, including menus, is available on their website.    

The Barking Dog Cafe, Indianapolis

There is much I love about the land-locked Midwest but I must admit that I am often envious of my friends who live on the coasts. If someone held a gun to my head and told me I must move to a U.S. coast and that I must choose between the east and west, I think I would head east and most likely to the northeast - New England. One of the compelling reasons for turning right instead of left would be, of course, the food.

Fortunately, Barking Dog Cafe brings some of that upper east coast cuisine right here to the heartland so I don't have to pack up my family and move. Owners/Chefs Mary Beth and Jeff Gahimer bring us the best of New England cuisine and my favorite of their offerings is their rolls - lobster, shrimp, and scallop rolls. These are the kinds of sandwiches you find at roadside stands in places like Nantucket and other seaside communities on the northern part of the east coast.

On my recent visit, I went for Buddy's Shrimp Roll ($8.50) the market-priced lobster roll was too rich for my Midwest blood. Regardless of which one you select, close your eyes and you can almost smell the sea breeze. The sandwich is on a buttered and grilled New England-style hot dog bun and filled with delicate shrimp, a light mayo-based dressing, and lettuce. It is served with amazing "overnight" pickles and a handful of kettle-cooked chips. Wow this is a treat. The menu (available here) includes several other sandwiches, sides, and a few desserts.

The Barking Dog Cafe is located at 115 E. 49th St. (49th & Penn) in Indianapolis. They can be reached by phone at 317-924-CAFE.

Balboa's: Whiz Wit in Indy

After the Subway at 2208 N. Meridian closed its doors, many were surprised when in the same spot emerged Balboa's Philly Steaks & Pizza. The cheesesteak place is an experiment by a restaurant group out of Cincinnati. Plans are now being made for a Cincy location there. I had a chance to eat a late lunch there the other day. Although it is not the best Philly cheesesteak I've had, it was very good and what I really like is that it seems to the the only place in Indy that offers the choice of Cheez Whiz. "Whiz Wit," which translates to Cheez Whiz with Fried Onions" is the true Philly way to eat a cheesesteak. Provolone is for tourists.

When I say it is not the "best" I've had but "very good" that is a small, specific, and subjective quibble. The buns used at Balboa's are pretty soft and I prefer a bun with a little more chew - a texture thing not a taste thing. This place certainly gets a Hungry Hoosier thumbs up. Stop by and check it out!

The menu is pretty simple - cheesesteak, a chicken version, meatball hoagie, and three or four other sandwiches. Pizza is sold by the slice or in the 18" whole pie. The menu is available here. Balboa's reached by phone at 317-926-0434.    

Little Pieces of Heart from Shen Yang

One of my youngest son Oliver's (not quite 3) favorite books is called, Yum Yum Dim Sum. I get frequent requests from him to read it. There is a line in there stating that Dim Sum are "little pieces of heart." I had a chance recently to visit Shen Yang on the Northwest side of Indianapolis. They specialize in Hong Kong-style Dim Sum, served every day.

On my visit I selected three little pieces of heart - Chive Dumplings, Spare Ribs, and Beef Chun Fun. Although I enjoyed all three, the sticky Chive Dumplings were my favorite - filled with steamed vegetables, tied with tiny chive blades and served with a hot dipping sauce. What a wonderful lunch. You can see photos of my three dishes here. The Dim Sum menu is available here and the full menu here.   

Shen Yang is open daily from 11 am to 9 pm. They are located at 3902 Georgetown Rd in Indianapolis. They can be reached by phone at 317-280-1978.

Famous Jack's Burgers & Brews

Saturday night I had a chance to have dinner at Famous Jacks Burgers & Brew. I'm not sure how famous Jack's is because I had the place nearly to myself at 6:00 pm on a Saturday night. People may not be cuing up outside the door but based on the burgers and fries, they should be. This place takes a straightforward approach with just a few menu items and a selection of bottled beers that totals 101 choices - thus the name Burgers & Brews.

First, the burgers. These are of the half-pound dudes, hand-pounded and served on an sand which-sized toasted English muffin. I choose a bacon burger and was pleased to see the raw bacon go on the grill along with the burger - no pre-cooked bacon here (one of my pet peeves). Burger eaters can dress their own at the toppings bar.

Now for the fries. Oh my goodness, these are amazing fries - more home fries than French fries. The spuds get baked the night before, refrigerated over night, sliced thin, and then fried twice - first in hot oil and then in a skillet. They are crispy and delicious. I had a bacon buger, fries, and a soda for about eight bucks.

Please check out Famous Jack's, you'll be glad you did. They are located at 3855 E. 96th in Indianapolis and can be reached by phone at 317-705-1624. They have a website here with more information including their menu. BTW, Jack's is a 21-and-over establishment.