Hogshead BBQ, Indianapolis and Pittsboro

Having lived in both Texas and the Southeast (two BBQ meccas), my last 11 years in Indiana has brought on many more BBQ disappointments than good experiences. As of this week, I've got one more notch in the good column. Since 1991, Hogshead has been operating a seasonal, carry-out only restaurant in Pittsboro. I have enjoyed trips there on several occasions but Pittsboro is not on any of my usual paths so I don't get there as often as I would like. Owner Danny Broughton has recently applied his business savvy and pit-master skills to the establishment of a new, year-round, sit-down location in the Indianapolis Broad Ripple neighborhood.

I had a chance to stop by this week for lunch. As I drove up, they passed my first test with flying colors - the unmistakable smell of smoked meat permeated the parking lot. With many of these so-called BBQ places, the sweet smokey perfume is nowhere to be sniffed. To me, that is like walking into an Italian restaurant and not smelling garlic or a bakery with no scent of baking bread. Its just not right.

The timing of my visit caused me to wonder about the shape in which I might find the meat. My day's schedule had pushed lunch back to 3:00 pm. I feared that I might catch them before meat was ready for the dinner crowd leaving me with dried-out fare held from lunch. For the home BBQ master, there is a somewhat narrow window of time when the Que is at its prime. Many BBQ restaurants have steam-heated holding ovens that can prolong that window, but not indefinitely.

When I eat BBQ, I typically prefer pulled pork or brisket to ribs. I like ribs but usually don't want a whole slab or even a half. I was VERY pleased that Hogshead's menu offers a three-bone add-on ($4.79) to any dinner. Perfect! I settled on a pulled pork sandwich with a side of corn casserole ($5.99).

Service was first class. I swear my food arrived in less than a minute and drink refills showed up to the table before I had to ask. I got to listen in to the staff around the corner as they answered questions from a lady picking up a take-out order. They were informed and enthusiastic as they dealt with her many queries. Even the younger (high school or maybe college-age) workers seemed genuinely knowledgeable about the operation and interested in talking with the chatty customer. What a change of pace from many restaurant workers.

Back to the food. Remember that my worry about dry meat? Hogshead proved me wrong. The pork was both moist and full of smokey flavor. In a word - perfect. The three-bone serving of ribs turned out to be just the right amount. The corn casserole was good, but I would be eager to try other sides before making my way back to it. Hogshead offers three sauces - original, hot, and spicy mustard. I didn't find a favorite among the three but had the best luck mixing the original, which is sweet, with the hot. Next time I prefer a vinegar sauce (recipe below). Maybe I'll bring some with me on my next visit.

I urge you to check out Hogshead at either location. Their website provides location information and menus. Long live Hogshead!

Vinegar BBQ Sauce

2 cups cider vinegar
3 tablespoons ketchup
2 tablespoons brown sugar
4 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon hot sauce (like Tabasco)
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons black pepper

Combine all these ingredients and whisk until the salt and brown sugar dissolves. You can store this in the refrigerator for several months.

Although it is not a necessity I use smoked black pepper in the above recipe. I buy mine online at Adrianna's Caravan.