The Hungry Hoosier

City Market Frittata

This month's Indianapolis Monthly Hungry Hoosier column includes a recipe for a City Market Frittata using ingredients found at the Indianapolis City Market - farm fresh eggs from Moody Meats, Italian sausage, vegetables, and imported provolone from Constantino’s Market Place. Constantino's Executive Chef Concetta Mascari has the sausage made using her grandfather's recipe. Moody makes it for her, but it is only available from Constantino's. Pick up a copy of the magazine to get the recipe and then stop by City Market to pick up the ingredients!

A Shrimp's-Eye View

There is perhaps no better-known Indianapolis food icon than the St. Elmo's Shrimp Cocktail, with its trademark make-you-cry cocktail sauce. As I travel, and inevitably strike up conversations about food with complete strangers, often St. Elmo's comes up and especially their shrimp cocktail. You may or may not have ever noticed this neon sign on a second floor window above the restaurant. I love it. I mentioned the sign to a friend of mine and he snapped this photo for me (thanks Lee!)from the third-floor of a parking garage across the street. So, next time your near St. Elmo's, look up!

Funny aside - as I typed this post I accidentally keyed in "Chimp" Cocktail. That would be a whole different dish!

Tallent Show

Originally published in light and refreshing newspapers on April 17, 2008

There was a time, a few years ago, when this little newspaper column we know as the Hungry Hoosier had a lot more restaurant coverage. That was when it was only a local column in my home town. In those early days I covered it all - from the town’s high-end dining to the greasy spoons (I mean that in a good way). After a couple of years, the column began running in other papers and its in a total of five now, in various parts of our great state.

With readers from such a broad geographic area, I don’t write as much about restaurants unless they are what we call “destination” restaurants. These are the places that are so good that you’ll get in your car on a Friday or Saturday night and make the drive just to go to dinner. Restaurant Tallent in Bloomington is just such a place.

Dave and Krissy Tallent are a husband-and-wife culinary dynamic duo. The story of their relationship is also the story of the restaurant. They are Hoosiers who met when they were both working college jobs in a Bloomington restaurant. They fell in love with each other and with food, deciding to pack up and head to New York to both study at the Culinary Institute of American. After graduating, they picked up some experience at some of the best restaurants in the U.S. before deciding to head back to Bloomington in 2004 to open a restaurant.

Last week I had the delicious fortune to dine at Restaurant Tallent twice. I went down on a Monday evening to have business dinner with a colleague and found it so enjoyable I retuned on Saturday night my wife. If I’m willing to spring for both dinner and I babysitter, it has to be someplace special, and this is.

If I gave tines on a fork or stars in my restaurant reviews, Tallent would get my highest rating. They hit homeruns in every category - taste, service, ambiance. Apparently I’m not the only one who things so. They have received a number of accolades over the last four years and Dave Tallent is currently on the short list for a James Beard Nomination and Krissy’s wine list is being considered for a Wine Spectator award. These are like the Academy Awards and Golden Globes of the restaurant world.

The menu at Tallent is seasonal and primarily reflects what is seasonal in the Hoosier state. They work closely with Indiana farmers and artisan food producers creating a menu anchored with sophisticated versions of Midwest cuisine. They pay just as much attention to procuring ingredients we don’t have here in the landlocked Midwest. They have recently begun working directly with fishermen in Apalachicola, Florida to supply them with great Gulf seafood.

Some of the standouts from my recent visits were an Arugula Salad served with crispy artichoke, goat cheese, chow chow, and banyuls vinaigrette ($10). Another first-course offerings that looked tempting was something called Breakfast for Dinner, a buttermilk biscuit with house-made bacon, quail eggs, and hollandaise ($13). My favorite entrée of the two visits was the Flora Farms Pork ($25) which included three different pork tastes - a moist and flavorful tenderloin, a portion of braised pork belly, and a serving of melt-in-my-mouth scrapple. This was accompanied by a cider-braised cabbage and served with natural jus. This hog trio was one of the most remarkable pork entrée I have ever had. Other entrees included beef, poultry, seafood, and a vegetarian selection. Entrees ranged from $21-34.

Desserts at Tallent are no afterthought. Between my own selections and tasting those of my dinner companions, I’ve tried nearly all of them. The Poppy Seed Angel Food French Toast ($8) and the S’more Trifle ($10) made with house-made marshmallows and graham crackers were among my favorites.

The Tallent wine list is extensive and helpfully organized by price. They have one of the largest by-the-glass selections I’ve ever seen. The mood at the restaurant is casual yet elegant and the service is top-notch. This is the kind of place that can work well for both a business dinner or a special occasion. Restaurant Tallent is open from 5 to 10 pm Monday through Saturday and reservations are recommended. They are located at 208 N. Walnut in Bloomington. They can be reached at 812-330-9801 and more information, including the full menu, is available here.

Burgers and Dogs: If These Foods Could Talk

Published in red hot newspapers on Febuary 28, 2008

I’ve got a feeling that if hamburgers and hot dogs could talk, each might confess their jealousy of the other. Maybe it kills the burger that hot dogs are “All-American” and stadiums everywhere are filled with fans devouring lots and lots of hot dogs. The ESPN-televised contests where competitive eaters gorge on dogs, probably drives the burger crazy.

Even though the hot dog has it so great, there’s lots to get worked up when it comes to the high-profile status of the burger. In most places in the U.S., the number of burger restaurants outnumber hot dogs joints by at least ten to one. Hamburgers even have an ever-present sidekick. The simpatico relationship between burgers and fries probably leaves even the most popular hot dog feeling a bit lonely. What is life without a best friend?

I’m not sure what we eat most of here in the Hoosier State. We probably eat our fair share, and perhaps more, of both. In Northwest Indiana, the spillover of Chicago’s love for meat in a tube, has made hot dogs a long-time stand-by in “d’Region.” In the rest of the state, finding a great hamburger has been a much easier task than procuring the top dog. That, however, is starting to change. Every few months, a new hot dog place is staking its claim into the our state’s mid-section. It is an exciting time in Hoosier hot dog history.

There are three relatively new eateries offering terrific hot dogs and one place where even health- and eco-conscious locavoires can find wieners made from locally-raised beef that has been grass-fed and is free of antibiotics and growth hormones.

Sweet Home Chicago, Brownsburg
Chicago native Barry Neary had been a Hoosier for 18 years before he decided to bring a taste of the Windy City to his new home town. Sweet Home Chicago in Brownsburg serves lots of Chicago mainstays but his dogs are the real deal all-beef Vienna beef served on poppy seed buns. The Chicago-style is just like it should be with neon-green relish, sport peppers, and the rest of the trimmings. Sweet Home Chicago is located at 680 E. 56th St., Suite 1 in Brownsburg. They can be reached by phone at 317-852-7581. They are open Monday - Saturday from 10:30 am to 9:00 pm and Sunday from 11:30 am to 7:00 pm. More information, including their full menu is available at www.sweethomechicagofood.com

King David Dogs, Indianapolis
Long time Indianapolis-area residents might remember the King David Dogs brand of hot dogs, made in Indy by the Hene brothers and available at retail outlets all over the city at the time. King David Dogs went away but was recently resurrected by Brent Joseph, grandson of one of the brothers. Recreating the original hot dog recipe, Brent and business partner Matt Hursh now feed downtown diners with loads of hot dog options. The Chicago influence is evident here too with steamed poppy seed buns, and a Chicago Dog on the menu, but the choices go way beyond that. This place is a hot dog lover’s dream come true. King David Dogs is located at 15 N. Pennsylvania and they are open Monday through Friday from 11 am to 4 pm. They can be reached by phone at 317-632-DOGS. More information, including a full menu, is available at www.kingdaviddogs.com.

Chicago Red Hots, Lafayette
Family obligations brought George and Judy to Lafayette from Chicago but they just couldn’t their favorite Chi-town eats of their minds. About a month ago they opened Chicago Red Hots serving dogs, Italian sausage, and Italian beef, all made the Chicago way. This is a true “stand” with no seating. They do, however, have a drive through. They are all set for this Fall’s Boilermaker tailgate season with party packs that will feed a hungry crowd. Chicago Red Hots is located at 350 and Concord Rd. They can be reached by phone at 765-474-8500 and they are open Monday through Saturday from 11 am until 8 pm.

Goose the Market, Indianapolis
Goose the Market continues to be the go-to place for all sorts of locally-raised meats and poultry including all-beef hit dogs. If you want to reduce the carbon footprint of your dog, pick them up from Goose and make your own. Goose the Market is located at 2503 N. Delaware St. They can be reached by phone at 317-924-4944 and online at www.goosethemarket.com. They are open Monday through Friday 10 am to 8 pm and Saturdays from 10 am to 6 pm.

Chicken House, Sellersburg

As a general rule, I don't write about places at which I've not actually eaten. I'm breaking this rule for the Chicken House in Sellersburg, IN. I was in Kentucky for business this week and popped into the Chicken House on my way back. I did not have time to eat but did take a look around. I will most certainly be back! This is a fried chicken-version of my favorite BBQ-joints in Texas - no frills, concrete floors, down-to-business servers. I love these kinds of places.

If you want a first-hand report, check out this link from the Louisville Eclectic Observer. I did manage to procure a menu which you can see here.

Rochester Bagel & Deli Company

Work takes me to Rochester, Indiana a couple times each year. When I go, I try to make time to stop at the delightful Rochester Bagel & Deli Company. Lots of smaller Indiana communities have coffee shops but far fewer have places that bake their own bagels. That's one of the reasons I really like this place. No imported or previously-frozen bagels here.

Each day they bake more than a dozen different varieties and they add to that number with some seasonal bagels. The baking doesn't stop there. They also have muffins cinnamon rolls, other goodies, and bake their own breads. The menu (available here) includes homemade soups, salads and sandwiches. On my most recent visit I went for an incredible Cherry & Chocolate Muffin. Wow! Soups of the day were Beef & Cabbage and Chicken & Dumpling. I wish I could have stayed for lunch!

Rochester Bagel & Deli Company is located at 231 E. 9th St. in Rochester. They are open Monday - Friday 6 am to 2 pm and Saturday 6 am to 12 noon. They can be reached by phone at 574-224-3354 or by email.

A Matter of Taste

I ran some end-of-the-year errands with Henry (6) today and we took a break to eat a bite at Taste Cafe & Marketplace Indy's breakfast and lunch spot that gives Patachou a serious run for the money. On the way to wash up in the restroom we stopped at the window to the kitchen to watch for awhile. This is a serious kitchen - way more than one would expect from a eggs and sandwich sort of place. The kitchen is also used for Taste's catering work and occasional special dinners. Anyway, if you love restaurant kitchens like I do, stop by and take a look.

As for our early lunch, we went for the pommes frites ($2.50) with sea salt and cracked pepper served with a basil aioli. They were hot and delicious. Even my ketchup-loving son dug the aioli. He also had a PB&J bagel and I had the Italian Grinder ($5.95) with imported mortadella, copa, and genoa salami with provolone and olive tapenade. It was a good sandwich but I will explore other menu items before returning to it. It was served with a few thinly-sliced half done-type sweet pickles. These were exceptional. We wanted to try some of the amazing-looking desserts but the line was longer than we wanted to wait. Maybe next time.

Taste is located at 5164 N. College Ave. in Indy. They can be reached by phone at 317-925-2233. More information, including menus, is available on their website.    

Asian Grill, Noblesville

I had a business lunch recently at Asian Grill on the square in Noblesville. I've eaten at a great many courthouse-square Chinese restaurants and they usually are what they are - not bad, not great, not much to differentiate one from another. Asian Grill breaks away from that crowd with a somewhat more up-scale dining experience, a well-focused menu, and a few extra touches.

They've got a relaxed-elegance thing going on in their look and feel. The service is attentive but casual and the menu offers a few well-thought-out selections rather than the 100s of options typically found on a Chinese menu. The Asian Grill calls itself "pan-Asian" their menu supports that claim - Chinese, Thai, Indian, Vietamese are all represented.

In making my selection, I went with my server's recommendation and ordered the Orange Chicken described as chunks of chicken in fresh orange pulp-infused sauce with peanuts and sesame seeds served with sauteed vegetables. The chicken was good but the stand-out was the vegetables - green beans and carrots in a thick and spicy sauce. At $7.25 this was a good value.

The Asian Grill is located at 74 N. 9th St. in Noblesville and they are open Monday through Thursday from 11 am to 2 pm and 5 to 9 pm, Fridays an hour later in the evening until 10 pm, and Saturdays from 12 noon to 2 pm and 5 - 10 pm. They can be reached by phone at 317-773-9990. Their menu is available here.

Frozen Custard Igloo, Lafayette

This may be the most food I have ever had for $4.99 and at the time they had a buy a basket get another 1/2 off! I was alone so I could not take advantage of the extra bargain. The Igloo's basket meal comes with a giant sandwich (a tenderloin in my case) an enormous serving of fries, and a 32-ounce drink. The tenderloin was made of ground pork (which is not my favorite) but, hey, I'm not complaining for the price. Talk about a Value Meal! The Igloo location where I ate was 1817 Troxel Drive in Lafayette. They can be reached by phone at 765-474-4566. Their other location is 4909 Tazer Drive and the phone number is 765-449-0100.

The Barking Dog Cafe, Indianapolis

There is much I love about the land-locked Midwest but I must admit that I am often envious of my friends who live on the coasts. If someone held a gun to my head and told me I must move to a U.S. coast and that I must choose between the east and west, I think I would head east and most likely to the northeast - New England. One of the compelling reasons for turning right instead of left would be, of course, the food.

Fortunately, Barking Dog Cafe brings some of that upper east coast cuisine right here to the heartland so I don't have to pack up my family and move. Owners/Chefs Mary Beth and Jeff Gahimer bring us the best of New England cuisine and my favorite of their offerings is their rolls - lobster, shrimp, and scallop rolls. These are the kinds of sandwiches you find at roadside stands in places like Nantucket and other seaside communities on the northern part of the east coast.

On my recent visit, I went for Buddy's Shrimp Roll ($8.50) the market-priced lobster roll was too rich for my Midwest blood. Regardless of which one you select, close your eyes and you can almost smell the sea breeze. The sandwich is on a buttered and grilled New England-style hot dog bun and filled with delicate shrimp, a light mayo-based dressing, and lettuce. It is served with amazing "overnight" pickles and a handful of kettle-cooked chips. Wow this is a treat. The menu (available here) includes several other sandwiches, sides, and a few desserts.

The Barking Dog Cafe is located at 115 E. 49th St. (49th & Penn) in Indianapolis. They can be reached by phone at 317-924-CAFE.