A few weeks ago, I had a chance to visit the Old World Market & Deli in Valparaiso, Indiana. John Kowalski, who owns the shop along with his wife Dee, has a great little store here and they have a distinctive selection of cheese, wine, and lots of other terrific products. I tasted an aged Gouda that was particularly beguiling. As I browsed the wines, while talking with John, I mentioned that I love a good Amarone but am rarely willing (or able) to splurge for this expensive wine. John asked if I had tried a Ripasso, which I hadn't. He had one on hand (2004 Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico).
To understand Ripasso, you first have to get a handle on Amarone. Amarone is also made in the same region and with the same grapes, but with Amarones, grapes are left unpicked to ripen more. Grapes are then laid out on mats, in cool areas, for at least four months. The grapes are crushed and fermented after the have hung out for awhile. This results in a more complex, powerful, full-bodied wine which is higher in alcohol content (about 16 percent). The Amarone is then aged in oak for three years or more.
Ripasso means to "pass over" or "do something again." The wine baring this name is made when newly fermented Valpolicella wine is added to Amarone pomace (the seeds and skins after the Amarone has been fermented. The wine is left on the pomace for a few weeks, where it picks up some of the characteristics (color, flavor, tannins) of Amarone resulting in a pretty interesting wine for much less than the cost of Amarone. wine without all the power of Amarone.
I've yet to open the Ripasso, but look forward to doing so. It was less than half the price of a mid-range Amarone. John was participarly helpful and gave the kind of time and attention you just don't find at a run-of-the-mill wine warehouse. If you are in Valpo, plan to stop by.