Scott Hutcheson

Blueberries: Get 'em While They're Plump

I just got a hot tip from a friend. The Van Kley Blueberry Farm in Wheatfield, Indiana has had a bumper crop this season and they have more berries than they know what to do with. These berries will probably only last two more weeks tops so you Hoosiers and Chicagoans may consider taking a trip to Wheatfield (map here) to pick some of their luscious fruit. The family has been growing berries since 1943 so you can be sure they know what they are doing!  They offer eight different varieties and I'm told that a visit to their picturesque 4.5 acre farm is a great event for the entire family. 

Grits from Sunny Slopes Farms

"Sonny Slopes" may sound like the name of a Vaudeville comedian but "Sunny Slopes" is actually a farm in Lynn, Indiana (Randolph County) where Steve and Rosalie Deatline produce maple syrup, cornmeal, grits, and soft-wheat flour. If you are headed to the Indiana State Fair this year you can visit the Deatlines, see them operate their portable grist mill, and purchase their products at the Pioneer Village. Rosalie will be dressed in prairie-style period clothing, BTW. The Deatline's wheat flours are milled from wheat they grown themselves and the corn comes from other Indiana farms. They also sell wheat berries for people who want to do their own grinding.

I've had grits on my mind all week since returning from the Carolinas where I enjoyed them not only for breakfast but also in Shrimp and Grits for dinner at The Parson's Table in Little River, South Carolina. Sunny Slopes Farms offers both white and yellow grits. Rosalie tells me that the yellow is a wee bit sweeter than the white.

The Deatlines sell their products year round on the farm. Their "side-porch sales room" is operated on the honor system when they are not around. They will also ship. Sunny Slopes is located at 7773 South 100 East in Lynn. They can be reached by phone at 765-874-2170. They can also be reached by email.

A Vegetable's Tale

This is where my vegetables live before they move into my stomach. They didn't actually live in this creek but this is on the same property where they were lovingly raised by my friends Kipper and Diana. They call their place Lyndale Farm - a combination of their middle names. Kipper and Diana are weekend and evening gardeners who have started a Faith Community Supported Agriculture (FCSA). They also sell at the Thorntown Community Market.

Here's what we got this week from Lyndale Farm:

• Buttercrunch Lettuce
• Red Butterhead Red Cross Lettuce
• Cascadia Snap Peas
• Negovia and Napoli F1 Carrots
• America and Renegade F1 Spinach
• Provider Bush Beans
• Red Ace Beets

Its great to know where at least some of our foods come from.

Mint Condition

I continue to be amazed at the bounty that comes forth from our Hoosier soils and the variety of foods that can be produced here - from the shores of Lake Michigan to the banks of the Ohio. On my latest Hungry Hoosier excursion I found something for the “who woulda thunk it?” category. Unless you studied agriculture in school, you may be as surprised as I was to learn that Indiana is one of the top mint producing states. We were once number one but in recent years we slipped to third behind Oregon and Washington.

Indiana’s mint Mecca is Stark County where they grown a ton of the green stuff and ship it to Chicago-based Wrigley, Proctor and Gamble in Cincinnati, and other big-time mint users. When you brushed your teeth this morning or chewed a piece of gum after lunch today there’s s good chance you freshened your breath with some Indiana mint!

While in Starke County last weekend, I had the opportunity to visit one of their mint farms. A few years ago, The Wappel family began growing mint along with corn and beans and they currently have 750 acres of mint, both peppermint and spearmint. Most of it gets mowed like hay and trucked to mint buyers that supply the Wrigley’s of the world, but they’ve also invested in a still to press the leaves and make their own mint oil. The Wappels sell their 100% pure mint oils online

Starke County not only grows mint, they celebrate it. North Judson has been home to an annual mint festival for the last 31 years. The three-day festival, always on Father’s Day weekend, is packed with all the typical festival festivities - food on sticks, parades, live music, carnival rides as well as several mint-related activities like a mint farm tour, mint plants for sale, and a “cooking with mint” contest.

I spent nearly a full day at this family-friendly festival and walked away with a sunburn, some of Wappel’s mint oil, and several new friends. A sudden thunderstorm threatened to put end the festival prematurely, but the determined North Judson folks didn’t let a little rain get in their way. The festival ended just as it has the last 30 previous years, with a parade.

On the way home I contemplated what I might try first with my newly acquired Indiana mint oil. I settled on some homemade mint chocolate chip ice cream. Wapple’s oil is the real deal and a little goes a long, long way. I used a bit too much in my first attempt at the ice cream but have made an adjustment in this recipe.

I urge you to put the North Judson Mint Festival on your calendar for next year but you won’t have to wait that long to get some homegrown mint oil if you want to order online.

Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream

• 3 cups half-and-half
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 8 large egg yolks
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 teaspoon mint oil
• 8 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips

Place the half-and-half and the heavy cream into a medium saucepan, over medium heat. Bring the mixture just to a simmer, stirring occasionally, and remove from the heat. In a medium mixing bowl whisk the egg yolks until they lighten in color. Gradually add the sugar and whisk to combine. Temper the cream mixture into the eggs and sugar by gradually adding small amounts, until about a third of the cream mixture has been added. Pour in the remainder and return the entire mixture to the saucepan and place over low heat. Stir in the vanilla and the mint oil. Continue to cook, stirring frequently until the mixture thickens slightly and coats the back of a spoon. Use a candy thermometer to be sure the mixture reaches 175 degrees.

Pour the mixture into a container and allow it to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Cover the container and refrigerate for eight hours or overnight. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to the manufacturer's directions. This should take approximately 30 minutes. Stir in the chocolate chips. This can be served right away at a soft-serve consistency or frozen for couple of hours for a firmer ice cream. This makes about one quart.

Berkshire Porterhouse

Last night for dinner my family and I had not just pork chops but "Berkshire Porterhouse" chops. These amazing chunks of meat came from Flora Berkshire Pork from Carroll County, Indiana (574-967-3484) via Goose The Market. These may just be the most amazing pork chops I have ever had. I had Chris cut them extra thick - a generous 1-1/2 inches. I dusted them with some seasoned flour, pan seared them, and then moved them to a 375 degree oven to finish.

I bought three of these giant things thinking it would certainly be enough for the family. My boys (6 and 3) usually eat like little birds but they could not get enough of the pork, eating the chop I cut up for them to share and a good portion of mom's and dad's.

If you would like to learn more about the Berkshire breed, check out this link. This is not "the other white meat" most of us are used to. This is the way pork once was, well-marbled, flavorful, and juicy.

November: Time to Talk Turkey

Originally published in moist and juicy newspapers on November 1, 2007

For those of us who like to cook, much of our spare time in November will be spent planning for and procuring needed supplies for Thanksgiving Dinner, the Super Bowl of cooking and eating holidays. In years past, I’ve encouraged readers to bypass the grocery store birds to try a farm-fresh turkey. This year, your hearing more of the same from me.

Here in central Indiana we have several options for local birds, from both farmers and now a couple retailers. Here are a few of those options.

Promised Land Farms (9781 W 275 N Thorntown) offers free-range birds that can be ordered and picked up a couple of days before Thanksgiving. You can arrange a pre-Thanksgiving visit to see the turkeys in action and meet Jim and Nancy Whelan. It is a fun trip for the whole family. They can be reached by phone at 765-483-9268. Their website is www.promisedlandfarm.us.

Humphrey Family Farms (3981 S. Grant St, Williamsport) raises all sorts of birds - geese, ducks, chickens, and turkeys. The Humphreys take orders at the Traders Point Creamery Winter Market in Zionsville (www.tpforganics.com) and deliver the birds there for pick up. The Humphreys can be reached by phone at 765-762-3160. You might want to also keep them in mind for a Christmas goose if you want to have an old fashioned Charles Dickens sort of holiday.

Purple Rock Farm (2282 E. 250 N, Frankfort) is also selling an all-natural bird. Gina and Travis Sheets have already processed their birds. They are frozen and ready to pick up anytime. Proceeds from Purple Rock sales go to support the Sheets’ missionary work in third-world countries. Gina and Travis can be reached by phone at 765-659-5310.

Joe’s Butcher Shop (111. W. Main Street) is Carmel’s butcher extraordinaire and Joe is selling all-natural free-range turkey’s raised across the state line in Ohio. Even though it is not an Indiana farmer, I think this is a good choice. Joe has a commitment to quality and sustainable practices. This is guaranteed to be a delicious bird. Joe is taking orders until November 10, 2007. He can be reached by phone at 317-846-8877 and online at www.joesbutchershop.com.

Goose: The Market (2503 N. Delaware St., Indianapolis) is a brand new retail shop in Indy’s Fall Creek Place specializing in top-rate foods from both near and far. They have a terrific year-round selection of meats, cheeses, and all sorts of delicious foods. For Thanksgiving, they too have gone to Ohio to procure all-natural, pasture-raised turkeys. You can count on Chef/Owner Christopher Eley to provide you with a quality product. Goose is taking orders through November 5th. They can be reached by phone at 317-924-4944 and online at www.goosethemarket.com.

The last several years I’ve gotten my bird from an area farmer. I can honestly say these have been the best turkeys I’ve ever had. This year I decided to order from Joe’s Butcher Shop in Carmel. I wanted a whole bird and an extra bone-in breast for plenty of white-meat turkey sandwiches! Joe was able to handle that request. Next week, I’ll provide some tips for how I’ll be preparing my bird this year.

Birky Family Farms Country Market, Valparaiso‎

Jake and Emma Birky established their Porter County farm in 1919. Now, the third generation of Birkys is leading the operation. They have built a reputation for offering high-quality pork raised with, as they put it, “No antibiotics, no growth hormones, no animal by-products, and no bull!” Their convenient Country Market features a wonderful selection of their products, including meaty ribs, thick-cut pork chops, a staggering variety of sausages, lean hot dogs, tenderloins, country bacon, smoked hams, pork steaks, and pork burgers. Birky also has a Pork Patty Wagon that provides catering and on-site grilling for events. Their products can also be ordered online. Call (219-766-3270) for market hours.

Purple Rock Farms

Lots of businesses have missions, but Purple Rock Farms takes mission to a whole new level. Travis and Gina Sheets sell pastured poultry, highland beef, and farm-fresh eggs to support their work with World Mission Builders, an organization that builds churches in third-world countries and recruits ministerial students to serve in the churches.

Their customers not only get great tasting farm products but also get the satisfaction of supporting World Mission Builders. The Sheets welcome visitors. Call to make those arrangements. They’ve also been known to ask folks to stick around for lunch or dinner! Their products are also available at Flavors Coffee House & Deli located on the square (63 E. Clinton St.) in Frankfort.

Purple Rock Farms is located at 2282 East C.R. 250 N in Frankfort. Travis and Gina can be reached by phone at 765-659-5310.

Kobe in the Heartland

Originally published in fork-tender newspapers on August 16, 2007

Want to set aflutter the heart of a carnivorous foodie? Mention Kobe Beef! In the mid-1990s, the most elite of the who’s-who-in-food began buzzing about beef coming from the Kobe region of Japan. Stories of how the cattle was raised seemed outrageous - daily massages, a diet that included beer. The fascination grew and a staggering number of people began paying prices of well over $100 per pound for this Japanese delicacy.

David Rosengarten of the Rosengarten Report, a popular newsletter for those into food, recalls his first experiences with Kobe. “I remember eating it deliriously in the late 1990s at New York steakhouses…I couldn’t believe what I was seeing and tasting - beef that, when raw, was so intensely marbled with fat it looked like it had been gang-injected with cream cheese. And the mouth feel was literally unbelievable: this stuff didn’t metaphorically melt in your mouth, it literally melted in your mouth, accompanied by wonderful waves of sweet beef and butter flavor.”

It did not take long for the American entrepreneurial spirit to take over and Kobe beef was being raised here in the U.S. As it turned out, the secret was not in the beer and the rub downs, but in the basic genetics of the breed of cattle - Wagyu. This type of cow is an anomaly among cattle. Its meat is much more marbled than any other breeds and it has a higher ratio of mono-saturated fats to saturated fats. Some claim that it also has high levels of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Amazingly, this is not only some of the most delicious beef in existence, but may also be some of the healthiest. 

You may be saying to yourself, “This is all quite interesting but I don’t get to New York City very often.” Well, you don’t have to go quite that far. In fact, Kobe is now not only available in Indiana, but being raised here. In 2003, the famed Joseph Decuis restaurant in Roanoke, Indiana began serving American Kobe as a featured menu item and it was an immediate hit with their discriminating clientele. Restaurant owners, Alice and Pete Eshelman set out to learn more about Kobe. They met and became friends with the handful of people who were pioneering Kobe beef to the U.S.

The Eshelmans set their sites on raising American Kobe beef themselves on the Joseph Decuis Heritage Farm, located just six miles from the restaurant. They acquired the finest breeding stock, consulted with the experts, and began raising cattle in a healthy, drug-free, stress-free environment. The calves born at the Heritage Farm are part Angus and part Waygu which produces robust beef that maintains the Kobe tenderness.

They now are their own supplier to the restaurant, making them the only establishment in Indiana, and perhaps the Midwest, serving home-grown American Kobe beef. Not only do they serve Kobe at the restaurant, they also sell it directly to the customer at their Emporium, located next door. Since there is no middle-man, their Kobe prices are much lower than you would find nearly anywhere else.

Joseph Decuis Kobe is available in halves or in individual cuts. A half Kobe will provide about 200 pounds of meat. The number of halves available is limited, so customers are encouraged to call and lock-in an order. Halves start becoming available each April. Individual cuts for purchase include filets, ribeyes, strip loins, and ground steak (this makes a phenomenal hamburger). Phone orders and shipping is available for Indiana customers only. The Joseph Decuis Emporium is located at 191 N. Main Street in Roanoke and they are open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm. They can be reached by phone at 260-672-1715. More information is available at here.

The Big Freeze

I finally got around to buying a chest freezer this week. In the house we have a stainless steel side-by-side fridge/freezer combo. It is sleek and modern and fits our retro/industrial motif we've got going in our kitchen. After living with it for a few months we realized the freezer side is nearly worthless. It is so narrow, that the capacity is limited and what you can put in there gets lost because you have to put one things in front of another. As a result, we don't buy many frozen goods at a time. I had been meaning to get a chest freezer for the garage and finally did.

Today I made my first purchase. I called up my chicken guy, Stan Skillington (see here), and stocked up on six whole birds, and about ten pounds of boneless skinless breasts. I also picked up some pork he gets from a nearby hog guy. Stan's birds can't be beat. There's lots more room in that freezer and my goal is to fill it up.